CORVALLIS — Snipping cuttings from the garden this time of year can set you up with a private nursery of plants by spring. Whether you plant the results of your “snip and stick” project or share them, propagating by cuttings is a rewarding process.
Although some sources can make the process feel intimidating, Neil Bell, a retired horticulturist for the Oregon State University Extension Service, has good news.
“I do lots of them at home,” Bell said. “I don’t use a greenhouse or even bottom heat. What that means is that the average gardener can propagate their own plants with nothing more than a tray, a decent medium, a bit of rooting hormone and a place to keep them out of the way.”
You don’t need a greenhouse
Greenhouses help, but they aren’t necessary. Using bottom heat can boost success if you have room to set up a system indoors. Bell keeps his trays of cuttings outside in a sheltered spot and has reasonable success.
Not all cuttings will “take” and produce roots, he said, but enough will to make it worth the attempt. About 100–125 cuttings can fit in one tray, so if you’ve never propagated by cuttings, try one or two trays and you’re likely to grow some plants from your efforts.
“There’s no need to complicate it,” he said. “Even if you end up with 10% rooting, you’ve succeeded — and most of the time you can do far better.”
What to propagate in October and November
The list of plants suitable for hardwood cuttings in fall is long. Common choices include:
- Rosemary
- Rhododendron
- Hydrangea
- Flowering currant (Ribes)
- Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium)
- Mock orange (Philadelphus)
- Redtwig dogwood (Cornus sericea)
- Rock rose (Cistus)
- Manzanita (Arctostaphylos)
- Hebe
- Cotoneaster
- Barberry (Berberis)
- Pyracantha
If you grow half-hardy shrubs like salvia, taking cuttings now is good insurance against winter injury.
Neil Bell’s steps for hardwood cuttings
You’ll need
- Clean, sharp small clippers.
- A clean, 3- to 4-inch-deep tray.
- Rooting hormone.
- Tight-fitting gloves to protect hands from prickles and the hormone.
- A soilless mix of 80% perlite and 20% of any of the following: coconut coir, compost, decomposed manure, wood chips or leaves.
- Soap and water or a mild bleach solution for cleaning used trays; let dry thoroughly.
How to do it
- Start with healthy stock. Plants stressed by disease, pests or drought have a high failure rate.
- Fill the tray. Add the perlite mixture.
- Take tip cuttings. Choose strong, growing twigs. Cut each 3–4 inches long so the piece has at least two to four nodes (where leaves and buds attach). With deciduous cuttings, note orientation: buds point toward the tip.
- Prep the cuttings. Bundle and bring them to your workstation. Remove bottom foliage, leaving two leaves or leaf buds at the top. Remove berries or fruit. For evergreens with large leaves (such as rhododendron), cut off half of each leaf.
- Dip and stick. Refresh the base cut, dip the bottom end in rooting hormone, and insert cuttings in the tray one-half to 1 inch apart. Press the medium snugly around each cutting.
- Water. Keep the trays evenly watered so the media stays moist.
- Shelter. Place the tray where it’s protected from wind and heavy rain.
- Maintain moisture. If it doesn’t rain or if the tray sits under an eave, water to keep the medium evenly moist.
- Protect from freezes. When the forecast calls for freezing temperatures, bring trays inside. Return them outdoors when temperatures rise above 32°F.
- Keep it clean. Don’t worry if leaves drop; it’s natural. Remove fallen leaves from the tray to prevent rot and disease.
- Check for roots in spring. In late March or early April, give a few cuttings a gentle tug. If they don’t budge, they’ve rooted. Pot rooted cuttings into 4- or 6-inch containers, depending on cutting size. If roots are too long to fit, trim them as needed.